Genius International srl
Genius International Srl
Via Pagliano, 35
20149 Milano - Italia
C.F. P.IVA: 03514810963
Reg. Imp. Milano: 03514810963
REA: MI - 1680125
Cap. Soc. 10.000€

Intima Asia

New Faces

New Faces

17 January 2017

As the Chinese lingerie market continues to grow, many young talented Chinese designers have appeared. Most of them have studied abroad and have great taste when it comes to fashion. To launch our new section, New Faces, we interviewed 4 new Chinese lingerie designers who introduced us to their brands and new collections. Meet Jessica Xu from Aurora Alba, Ting Wang from exciTING DESIGN, Anthony from Hout & River and Lisa Ou from MAIA Active.

Interview with Jessica Xu – Aurora Alba

Jessica Xu, lived and studied in Australia for eight years. She has a double degree in law and finance and worked in an investment bank for several years. After returning to China, she started to look for a new career. She moved to Milan to study lingerie, and found her true passion in the intimate apparel industry, creating beauty. Now she has started her own fashion lingerie brand to encourage women to love their own authentic natural beauty. She believes that women’s beauty comes from their love of life, their dreams and the people they are surrounded by, as these are what fill them with energy and self-confidence. She chose to pursue lingerie design, to not only enter the most intimate fashion industry, but also to allow women to show their real personalities 

When did you start up Aurora Alba?
June of 2015.
Why did you start designing and building your own brand? Did you study fashion design?
I worked in Australia in the financial and legal sector. After returning to China a few years ago, I found that the Chinese Mainland’s market has a lack of style and variety. I have always liked creative industries, so I had the idea of starting a fashion lingerie brand. With this idea, I began to study lingerie design. As my first step I went to a design studio in Milan to learn the foundations of underwear design, and later when I returned to China I went to a technical school and the Beijing Institute of Clothing to learn pattern making and basic tailoring, and then I began to create my brand. Now, during my brand management period, I am still going to professional schools and workshops to study design-related courses. This learning brings me a lot of knowledge and inspiration.
How do you position your brand?
It is a light luxury fashion lingerie brand, for both mature and young women, who have an independent personality and special taste.
From starting your brand how many collections have you designed? Which one is your favorite?
I have launched five collections, and four festival mini collections. I will launch a SS17 collection soon. I like this latest collection. From the beginning to the present my collections are becoming more mature and my interpretation of lingerie is also growing. I am progressing a lot thanks to this change of style and the fact that I have a better grasp of fashion and fabric.
What’s the price range?
We have different prices for online and physical stores. Online a set of lingerie costs around 300-500RMB(50-70euro), in a physical store a set of underwear is priced at between 700-900RMB (90-120euro).
Is your main market domestic or overseas?
We currently only sell to Chinese customers, there are plans to develop in the overseas market.
Which brands do you think are your competitors?
Recently, a small number of lingerie brands have appeared in China, I think it is a good complement to the traditional market and helps the promotion of the whole market. However, the domestic underwear market is very dispersed, even the market shares of the traditional large underwear brands are equally divided.
What are your short-term goals and long-term plans for your brand?
There are three steps to our short-term goals. First, create a rich product line with quality control; second, improve the branding in a variety of ways, including the overall visual output and cultivate brand personality. Third, promote sales. Long-term plans are to broaden the market, work on our overseas visibility, and develop a reputation in the industry.
What is life like besides designing clothes? What is your ideal life?
Managing a brand and leading it step by step actually occupies most of my time. Usually during leisure time I enjoy doing simple things and chatting with my friends. My ideal life is also being able to do my favorite things and do them well. Then being able to have time to spend with my family and friends, but also have time to myself. I love sports and traveling very much.
Did you encounter any difficulties when you were creating the brand? And how did you overcome them?
In the initial stages of brand creation you will encounter many difficulties, especially if you are outside of the industry. From being unfamiliar to the fabric, to the uncertainty on style, to having difficulties understanding production, to the lack of sales channels and so on. In fact, it is key to stay calm, avoid doing things in a rush and solve each problem step by step. Even now, I still have problems and difficulties, but I think it is reasonable and it can prove that I am moving forward. If the difficulty can be solved with a little bit of stress, then it is reasonable. But too much stress may mean that now I am doing things outside of my ability, and I will need time to adjust.
Do you have confidence in the future of your brand?
I am very confident of my brand. First of all I have confidence in myself, I love my job very much. Secondly, I think there are many opportunities in the domestic market. The amount of attention people pay to underwear is quietly changing, for people like us who like challenges and changes, undoubtedly, it is the best time. At the same time, there are a lot of difficulties and challenges. We need to be patient.

Interview with Ting Wang - exciTING DESIGN

Ting Wang is an independent designer with ten years of experience in the intimate apparel industry. She worked with womenswear brands for seven years and has worked in e-commerce for the past three years. She has a lot of experience working with brands and online suppliers and a unique understanding of how social media can be used in the fashion industry. She has a love of nature and outdoor sports, including climbing, riding, hiking, kayaking, paragliding, diving, marathon, high altitude cross-country running. ExciTING always insists on finding inspiration from a combination of outdoor activities, travel and design, in order to make unique products.

When did you start exciTING DESIGN?
March of 2014.
Why did you start designing and building your own brand? Did you study fashion design?
I majored in Fashion Design and Engineering at Jiangnan University. I love outdoor sports, but I can never find the right clothes, right now the products on offer are practically all the same. As a womenswear designer I am particularly sensitive to women's needs, so I hope to combine these with female beauty, using function, urban fashion and daily comfort, to shape exciTING DESIGN. Of course we also have stylish, handsome menswear.
Where do you envision your products being used?
Hiking, running, mountain climbing, wading, getting inspiration from nature. Technology has been combined with fashion to create practical, multi-functioning products that meet the needs of trendy people on the go.
How many collections have you designed? Which one is your favorite?
Four in total. Our collection for FW 2015-16 was the first one, it’s not very mature. My favorite one is our FW 2016-17.
What’s the price range?
SS collections range from 399RMB to 1899RMB, while our FW collections are from 399RMB to 2699RMB.
Where is your main market?
It is the domestic market.
Do you sell online or in stores?
We sell our products both online and in stores.
Which brands do you think are your competitors?
We don't have any at the minute because exciTING DESIGN is neither an outdoor brand nor a sports brand.
What are your short-term goals and long-term plans for your brand?
In the short term, I aim to achieve brand independence and financial stability. In the long term, I want to meet my customer's needs with environmentally friendly products.
What is life like besides designing clothes? What is your ideal life?
I used to visit exhibitions and listen to live music, but now, after starting my own studio I have less time. I always workout during my free time, plan trips and wear my own products while taking part in a variety of interesting activities. My ideal life would be an exciting one! Showing off my exciTING products, surrounded by exciting people and telling exciTING's story.
Did you have any difficulties creating the brand? How did you overcome them?
There were some problems with the funding, channels, promotion and supply chain for example. But if you are motivated and believe in yourself, you will find a lot of help. Right now, we have a small amount of investment, but I am looking for other partners.
Do you have confidence in the future of your brand?
Of course.
What do you think of INTIMA Asia?
Right now in Asia, especially in China, athleisure is a key trend. I hope Intima Asia can recommend more trendy products to its readers.


Interview with Anthony – Hout & River

Anthony, writer, cook, designer. As a profound writer, he takes inspiration from his everyday life. His books, 'Orange- a Journey Through New Zealand', 'These Are All the Love You Give Me', 'Antone', 'Bistro Merri' are filled with fairy tale like descriptions and his novel 'With Anthony through the Long Years' was even adapted into a film produced by Xun Zhou, 'Les Aventures d'Anthony.' He graduated from Melbourne University where he majored in hotel management and minored in interior design. He also studied French and Italian cuisine and, in London, learnt flower arranging and pottery throwing.  He then collaborated with one of the world's leading lingerie brands, Mimi Holliday, Damaris's younger brand, to create an extremely popular underwear line for women. In the Fall of 2016, he founded men's underwear brand Hout &River, which will be available soon.

We all know that before starting Hout & River, you wrote a couple of books in China, and one of your books was made into a movie. Why did you start to design underwear and build your own brand? Have you ever studied underwear design?
I collaborated with O2bra App to design some lingerie for women and it went really well. So I thought why don’t I make some underwear that I can also wear. I have never studied underwear design though.
How many books have you published? Are you still writing now? Why?
About 10 books for now. I’m still writing, because I have something to write.
Where would you place your brand’s market position?
Clean and comfortable. We will have different collections with different prices.
Will your main market be in China or overseas?
We will try both.
Which brand do you consider as your competitor?
Other brands that are sold online with a competitive quality-price point.
What is the short-term and long-term plan for your brand?
Short-term: don’t let my partners invest too much, and hope they can get what they want out of their investment. Long-term: I hope that over 100 thousand men wear our underwear, and think, “finally, I found you.”
What’s the price of the product?
The price will be from 228RMB to 520RMB.
Will you sell online or offline?
We will sell online with the app O2bra and other platforms.
What’s your opinion on the Chinese underwear market? Compared to foreign markets, what are our disadvantages?
Typically, Chinese underwear has a lack of beauty and quality. As people's needs change so does the market but I think the main problem is that people don’t want to pay for the clothes that they wear in private.
Have you met some difficulties when you founded your brand? How did you overcome them?
We didn’t encounter too many difficulties.  When we did, everybody worked hard and we got through it together.
Are you confident about the future of your brand? What is your ideal life style?
I am confident because I really like our collection. My ideal life style is to be surrounded by people I like, being natural and sexy.

Interview with Lisa Ou - MAIA Active

Orginally from Taiwan, Lisa Ou graduated from New York Parsons School of Design in 2008 with a major in Womenswear Design. After graduation, she worked for independent design brand, J.Crew, for two years. Then she returned to Mainland China and worked as a Design Manager at Badgley Mischka where she designed nightwear for Michelle Obama, Bingbing Fan and Yifei Liu. After that, she moved to Elegant Prosper, where she helped the company target a younger demographic. Now she has founded her own brand – MAIA Active.

When did you start your brand MAIA Active?
The end of June in 2016.
 Why did you decide to build your own brand?

Before I couldn’t find a sportswear brand, I wasn't satisfied with the design or the quality that was on offer.  The colors offered by American and European brands are not suitable for Asian women, who also have specific needs when it comes to push-up bras that which foreign brands cannot meet.
How did you set the position of your brand?
I wanted to make a brand suitable for Asian women, to meet their sports bra needs. We developed our own fabric, to provide higher quality at a lower price. We only focus on products for women that prioritize comfort.
How many collections have you designed and what products have you included?
Two collections, including sports bra, shorts, outerwear and T-shirts.
What is your price point?
The prices range from 350RMB to 600RMB.
Is your main market is in China or overseas?
Now our main market is in China, but in the future we also want to sell abroad.
Do you only sell online or in stores aswell?
Both, online we sell on Xiaohongshu, O2bra and Taobao and we will also open a Tmall. Offline, we cooperate with high-end gyms, like Space Cycle and Base Body in Shanghai.
What is your short-term and long-term plan?
Short-term: To improve our products, tell our story, and to promote a healthy active lifestyle in China. Long-term: We will open our bricks and mortar stores next year, and experience stores in Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou, building both our online and offline selling platforms.
Except designing clothes, what is your daily life? What is your ideal lifestyle?
I like to workout, every day I get up at 6:00, then go to the gym and walk my dogs. My ideal lifestyle would include working out everyday and doing meaningful things with my friends.
Did you face any difficulties when you started your brand? How did you overcome them?
Yes, the most difficult thing was going from being a designer to a manager and learning how to manage the supply chain. I needed to learn a lot to overcome this.
Are you confident about the future of your brand?
Yes, of course. Sportswear brands are very popular in the present market.
What do you think of the Intima Asia magazine?
I think in China there aren't enough magazines about underwear, I hope you can introduce more underwear brands and designers to your readers.


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